Finding Bliss in the Beautiful San Blas Islands

My 3-Night Catamaran Trip around the San Blas Islands

For somebody like myself who is not known for her sea-legs, I would like to say it was a challenge.  Yet, the only true challenge here on my catamaran trip around the San Blas Islands was restricting myself to two or three items of clothing from my XL suitcase. 

I had heard that the San Blas Islands were unique. However, nothing quite prepared me for the sheer beauty and authenticity of this sun drenched enclave. 

Just Why are the San Blas So Unique

This Panamanian archipelago is found nestled within the crystal clear waters of the Caribbean Sea. It is also known as Guna Yala and forms part of the autonomous territory owned and governed by the indigenous Guna people.

The reason I say that the islands are unique is because not only are the majority of the islands uninhabited but they are devoid of bricks or concrete . Let’s face it, where do you go these days and not find a building or permanent structure of some description?

Unlike most idyllic island destinations, there are no hotels, villas or spas tucked away on the palm fringed sands. It is like arriving at your own Robinson Crusoe hideaway.

The Guna people have built villages on 2 of the islands where they have a bank, hospital, school and some government offices. However, outside that and the island which is home to the air strip, we are talking deserted.

How Did I Get There….

So my adventure to these islands began in Panama City. I was picked up bright and breezy at 7am by a pre-arranged transfer service and whisked off to Albrook airport.  This small domestic airport is also home to private aeroplanes and helicopters. 

Once there, I was whisked off to Hangar 2 where my shiny 6 seater plane was waiting. Whilst the pilot carried out his pre flight checks, I was welcomed into the small waiting lounge for a quick caffeine fix. 

In retrospect, I’m not entirely sure that was the most sensible choice for my pre flight nerves but too late now. Before I knew it my XL suitcase had been safely stored and I was climbing the small steps into this very tiny flying machine. 

Santiago, our lovely young pilot, reassured us that the flight conditions were good with limited turbulence. This was encouraging as my heart was picking up pace. Journey time was to be 40 minutes and I should sit back and enjoy the view.

Well, I consider myself a good flyer. I manage to keep any unhealthy thoughts at bay – mind over matter and all that. However, as I soared along in a small, aluminium box, 15,000ft in the air, I had to remind myself of this.

“Look at the amazing views” my fellow passengers exclaimed as my knuckles turned white whilst grasping my seatbelt.

To be honest, when I did turn my head to look out, they were amazing views. First, flying over Panama City and its spectacular skyline, then rainforest and then onto the stunning sight of the archipelago as it appeared in the distance. 

Thankfully, it’s not a long flight and before I knew it we were on the descent. Do not think airport as you know it when I say landing! This is a strip of threadbare tarmac no longer than the island it sits upon. No room for mistakes here! 

Hello to my Floating Home

Safely disembarked, I thanked the pilot somewhat over profusely for delivering us safely to terra firma. Following a mandatory $20 guest airport tax to a smiling Guna lady on the end of the runway, I was led to a waiting dinghy.

A five minute dinghy ride took me to my floating home for three nights. A beautiful sleek catamaran swaying gently on the Caribbean Sea. Oh yes!

I booked my catamaran adventure around the San Blas islands through San Blas Sailing. One of the owners of the company was an old friend from my childhood days in Africa. He, like myself, had the travel bug and had relocated to Panama some 20 years ago.

The catamaran slept 6 and had a crew of 3 on board. The captain, cook and first mate. Following introductions, we picked up anchor and set sail to the more remote islands farther afield. 

The seas were calm, the sail smooth and I soon felt very at home in my new surroundings. The  boat itself had paddle boards, canoes and snorkelling equipment on board.  Just as important, it also had a well stocked bar and an array of culinary delights.

Have I Arrived in Paradise

After about a two hour sail, passing small islands with white sands and palm trees, we arrived at our secluded spot for our first swim. What a wonderful feeling diving in those crystal waters. 

As I swam up to the deserted island, stepping out onto the glistening white sand, I felt I was in paradise. Three Gunas lived on this island. Their wooden shack and open fire shaded underneath the palm trees.

Of the several islands we visited, the most populated island was by a family of five. Grandmother, mother, father and two babies. However, I also spent an afternoon on an island without a single inhabitant. This was the perfect Robinson Crusoe experience.

These turquoise blue waters have an abundance of tropical fish but also a very healthy supply of lobsters. One of the major incomes for the indigenous people is to sell the lobsters, crabs and other fish to the sailing boats which frequent their waters. This is another benefit of San Blas – who doesn’t love grilled lobster!

Another source of substantial income is by the Guna women selling intricately embroidered molas (traditional cloth) and beaded jewellery. Naturally, I felt compelled to add to my already overloaded bag of costume jewellery waiting for me in my XL suitcase back at the hangar. 

Possibly the World’s Best Secret

This corner of the world is fascinating for so many reasons but one of the standouts for me is that you feel, and of course, you are a guest of the Guna Yala community. They warmly welcome you to their precious territory with wide smiles to allow you to experience the beauty and culture of their land. However, they remain satisfied in the knowledge that they are in control of their destiny and that we, fleeting visitors, are merely dots in the landscape of their 200 year heritage in this part of Panama. 

The beauty of San Blas is that it is so authentic. There are many idyllic islands in the world but none so unspoilt as these. 

As I sit on the catamaran enjoying my dinner of lobster and Chilean wine, I can’t help but think how different my normal world is to theirs. I feel grateful that I am here to witness the simplicity of life around me and hope that the steamroller of modernity does not find its way here anytime soon.

On my last evening on the seas, we turn all the lights off, lie on our backs, gazing up to the night sky. The blackness enshrouds us like a thick blanket. In the silence, the night sky suddenly becomes alive with bright stars dancing to their own tune.  Bliss. Bliss in San Blas.

I stare in awe at this wonderful sight and reconfirm to myself what a magical world we live in.