My 7 Day Itinerary Driving the Epic Route 500
Driving the Route 500 is an adventure that takes you through some of the most scenic landscapes in Scotland.
Day 1 – Inverness to Dornoch (1hr/43miles). Follow A9 north
Inverness-shire and Easter Ross. Before I set off on my drive, I spent the morning making a few whistle stop visits to nearby tourist attractions. The first was to Loch Ness in search of the infamous Loch Ness monster. Needless to say, I did not spot it and had to make do with the state of the art displays on show at the Loch Ness Centre in Drumnadrochit.
Following that, I visited Urquahart Castle. The castle ruins date back to 1509 and command the most stunning view of Loch Ness. It’s definitely worth a visit if you have time.
The Journey Begins
Now it’s time to start. Technically the route 500 starts at the Castle in the centre of town. I gave it a nod from my car window as my journey began!
The route I’d chosen to take was anticlockwise so I set off with the North Sea on my right hand side.
If you like whiskey, you’re in for a real treat. Scotland just keeps giving on the whiskey distillery front. You will pass many en route but the popular Glenmorangie distillery is found just before Dornoch. You can enjoy guided tours and take part in tastings.
The Land of Fairytale Castles
Shortly after passing over the Dornoch Firth Bridge, you’ll find Skibo Castle off to the left. Skibo Castle is now known as The Carnegie Club and is a residential private members club. It offers its members and their guests accommodation, a private links golf course, clay pigeon shooting, tennis, horse riding amongst other outdoor pursuits.
Madonna and Guy Ritchie famously hired the entire castle for their doomed wedding in 2000.
I, however, am headed to another castle and my accommodation for the evening in the little town of Dornoch.
Although, this trip was very much about admiring the stunning landscape along this route, it also involved staying in some beautiful accommodation. Scotland certainly excels when it comes to offering a wide range of hospitality. The food, drink and accommodation all contributed to making this trip a memorable Scottish adventure.
Places to stay in Inverness:
Places to stay in Dornoch:
Day 2 – Dornoch to Tongue via John O’Groats (3.40hrs/142 miles). Follow A9, A99, A836, A838
Caithness. You’ll continue your journey north up the A9 towards Golspie. As you drive through, you can’t fail to miss Dunrobin Castle, a French style castle set in beautiful gardens. Dunrobin is the biggest house in the Highlands and has been inhabited by Clan Sutherland since the 1400s.
This fairytale like chateau welcomes visitors to its opulent rooms and perfectly landscaped gardens. Time it right and you’ll also experience a wonderful falconers display. This takes place daily at 11.30am and 2.30pm from the end of March until the end of October.
Back on the road again and you will reach Brora. Brora boasts a beautiful sandy beach with Jurassic rocks. It also has a golf course which enjoys a panoramic position overlooking the coastline. It truly is an unspoilt part of the country.
Archeological Treasure Trove
If you are interested in archeology then you can also make a number of stops on this route to visit sites which have been preserved showing cairns and brochs from bygone days. The Brora Pictish Cairn Broch is found shortly after you leave Brora beach. The Ousdale Broch is also found just north of Helmsdale.
There are so many archeological sites in the northern highlands but I shall only mention a few in this itinerary. Obviously, if this is something you are particularly interested in I recommend you research further sources such as Ancient Scotland and Forestry and Land Scotland.
Likewise, there are numerous spectacular viewing points meaning you could be stopping every 1/2 hour on this journey. To this end, I will only mention a few as otherwise the itinerary will turn into a 2 week itinerary!
Lothbeg Point, Whaligoe Steps, Dunbar’s Stack and Wimblar’s Rock are all good stopping points to take some photos and breathe in the sea area before you arrive in Wick.
Onwards to John O’Groats
Wick is a small town set astride the River Wick and if you feel like a stopover or a quick coffee, it does offer all you may need. Fortunately, the A99 passes straight through the centre of town so I managed to have a quick glance as I drove on to John O’Groats.
I had always heard of John O’Groats but had never visited before. It is known as the furthest point on the mainland from Land’s End in Cornwall. It is in fact a small village with very little there but is is very popular amongst tourists because of its position.
In reality, Dunnet Head is officially the most northerly point in mainland Britain, whilst John O’Groats is the most northerly village. The views are spectacular as you look across to Orkney Islands. In the summer there is a ferry that you can take to these islands.
The operational Duncansby Head Lighthouse is also a short distance from John O’Groats. If you drive over to the lighthouse, the Duncansby Sea Stacks are just a short walk away from here. At the right time of year, you may even spot whales.
Following my welcome break here and loaded up with new photos on my phone, it was time to drive on. I had a new energy having been totally blasted by the sea air and violent gusts of wind. The very top coastline of Scotland and indeed mainland UK was calling.
The Royal Holiday Home of The Castle of May
As you head west on the A836 towards Thurso, your first stop should be The Castle of Mey. The Castle was once the holiday home of the Queen Mother. Upon her death, The Castle and Gardens were opened to the public for certain periods of time. It is now under the stewardship of The Prince’s Trust and King Charles and Camilla do still enjoy short visits here.
In the grounds of the Castle of Mey there is a wonderful B&B called The Granary Lodge. It is a little bit of luxury amidst the ruggedness of this coastline. A quiet and serene spot to lay your head if you do not want to travel further.
As you approach Thurso, Dunnet Head is off to the right. This is rightfully the most northern point in mainland Britain. There are no facilities here but if you can brace yourself against the blustering winds, you will not be disappointed with the views.
Just as you leave Thurso, you will find Scrabster harbour off to the right (A9). Here you will find the Principal Keeper’s Lighthouse, headland and a stunning sea stack. If you have time, pick up a take away tea/coffee and wander up here.
Place to Stay Nr. Tongue
- Tongue Hotel
- Bettyhill Hotel
- The Granary Lodge, Castle of May
Day 3 – Tongue to Kylesku (1.45hrs/64 miles). Follow A838, A894
Sutherland. Tongue is one of the main crafting towns along the north coast. It looks down on the Kyle of Tongue.
The Kyle of Tongue is a loch on the western side of Sutherland. From here you are gifted with stunning scenic views of coast and mountain. The peaks of Ben Hope and Ben Loyal stand out in the distance
Leaving this idyllic spot, you will head out towards Durness. At the same time, you will witness the roads becoming more and more narrow.
Signs to Smoo Cave will meet you just before Durness. This cave is quite unique being both a fresh water cave and a sea cave.
You can park up and wander down to the massive mouth of the cave. With the tide out, you are also able to enjoy walks on the beach. The cave is lit by floodlights and there is a wooden walkway and bridge that leads you from the sea cave to the inner freshwater cave.
Only 5 minutes from here, you can drive to the spectacular Sango Bay viewpoint. Here you have panoramic views of the rock-strewn beach and surrounding cliffs.
Depending on your schedule, if you have time, turn off the A383 before Kylesku onto the B801. If you follow the signs for Kinochbervie, you can make a detour to the beaches of Sandwood Bay and Oldshoremore Beach. You would not believe these beaches are in the UK!
After a good deal of fresh air, I hot footed it to my hotel for the evening. As you approach Kylesku, you pass over the amazing Kylesku Bridge. Kylesku is a somewhat remote area so accommodation choices are limited,
Places to Stay Nr. Kylesku:
- Kylesku Hotel
Day 4 – Kylesku to Ullapool (2.10hrs/62 miles). Follow A894/B869/A837
Sutherland. Travelling down this west coast was for me the most scenic. It offers stunning views and the landscape is phenomenal. The roads are narrow, winding and more challenging as you transverse mountains and heathland.
This region is called Assynt and is definitely one of the most memorable parts of the Route 500. You will not be disappointed with continuous onslaught of magnificent scenery.
You need to say goodbye here to the main ‘A’ road and take a right onto the B869. This Drumbeg Loop is a 24 mile long single track road that follows the coast from Kylesku down to Lochinver.
It is narrow and it is very steep in places with conveniently placed passing bays for the oncoming traffic. It is also affectionately called ‘The Wee Mad Road of Sutherland’. Albeit a very challenging road, it is without doubt one of the most spectacular routes in the Highlands of Scotland.
Some half hour after embarking on this little road, you’ll come to Drumbeg and its viewpoint overlooking the outer islands. Stop to take in the views of the unspoilt beauty of the highlands.
The road then snakes on as you pass Clashnessie Bay on the inland side and the Clashnessie Falls. Shortly afterwards you’ll come to Stoer, a small crafting village. The Stoer LIghthouse , the famous sea stack known as the Old Man of Stoer and the coastal hikes in this area are very popular.
As you twist and bend on this loop, Achmelvich Beach is signposted off to your right. Like many of the beaches in this area, they have soft sand and clear waters – if only the weather was warmer!
Further ahead, you’ll reach a little T-junction on A837, turn right and you’ll be in the fishing village of Lochinver. It’s a remote spot surrounded by incredible nature. You might like to stop here for lunch or the evening. I, however, made a quick pit-stop and drove inland again towards Ullapool.
As you drive towards Lock Assynt, the rugged peaks of Assynt stand proudly in the dramatic landscape that surrounds this part of the journey. The lonely ruin of Ardvreck Castle on the banks of Loch Assynt haunt this area. This was the stronghold of the MacLeods family said to date back to the 15th Century.
Before you arrive in Ullapool, you’ll pass Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve. Do stop and have a walk around here as this particular Crag is famous in the history of geology studies. The internationally famous phenomenon is known as the ‘Moine Thrust’.
In very layman terms, this means that the rocks at the bottom of the cliffs are actually younger than those at the top! The theory of tectonic plates crystallised following a study of these rocks in the early 1900’s.
Driving down the hill into Ullapool, you get a great view of the town and Lock Broom surrounding it. Ullapool, itself is a pretty fishing town and the largest town on the west coast of this route. It also offers ferry connections to the islands of Lewis and Harris.
The accommodation options here are not lavish (think 3 star) but comfortable and the views are totally wonderful. Also, it does have the multi award winning restaurant ‘The Seafood Shack’.
Places to Stay Ullapool:
- The Royal Hotel
- Riverside
- The Arch Inn
Day 5 – Ullapool to The Torridon (1.30hr/67 miles) A835, A832, A896
Ross & Cromarty. From Ullapool you head inland for a short distance and then back out to the coast. The first attraction you’ll come to is the Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve.
This mile-long canyon can also be seen from a Victorian suspension bridge that crosses over the gorge. The bridge that crosses the River Droma below is reached via a short, steep walk. There are lots of trails through the surrounding woodland either side of the gorge if you wish to have a wander.
From Corrieshalloch, you veer right onto the A832 towards the coast road. You pass through Aultbea and to a wonderful viewpoint in Inverewe looking out over the cliffs. The Inverewe Garden and Estate shortly afterwards is a beautiful botanical garden. The diversity of flowers and trees here brought about by the effects of the Gulf Stream is both a delight and shock. You will find flora and fauna from around the world that really shouldn’t be found in this barren landscape.
Continuing onwards and back towards the coast, you’ll arrive at Gairloch. This little village looks across to the Isle of Skye and is a good base for exploring Wester Ross. It has unspoilt beaches, such as Red Point Beach and Fairy Lochs, a small group of freshwater lochans that lie in marshy ground.
From Gairloch, it’s back inland towards the shores of Loch Maree. Loch Maree is often regarded as Scotland’s most picturesque loch. There are many places along the loch to take in the scenery including the Victoria Falls, albeit not quite as dynamic as its African counterpart but still pretty. Then it’s onto to Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve where you can stop and walk amongst the forest or mountain. Photo opportunities abound here too.
As you reach Kinlochewe, you will take a right onto the A896 towards Torridon. On this section of road, the landscape is equally stunning and there are lots more opportunities to pull in to take photos. Just be mindful not to pull in and abandon your car at a passing bay as it will not be appreciated by other drivers.
My accommodation for the evening was The Torridon which is a stunning Scottish shooting lodge on the shores of Loch Torridon. It is set within 58 acres of private parkland in a most idyllic spot. I was on a mission to make it here for tea as their cream teas are delicious! I did and it was!
Day 6 – Torridon to Tornapress (1.45hours/42 miles), then choose between:
- Tornapress to Inverness (1.45hours/70 miles) Follow. A896, A832, A835. The End
- Tornapress to Isle of Skye (1.35hours/55 miles). Follow A896, A390, A87
Ross and Cromarty and Inverness-shire. On the traditional Route 500, from Torridon, you would continue driving along the Applecross Peninsula to Tornapress and then make your way east and back to Inverness. I, however, wanted to include the Isle of Skye. Unlike the other islands in the Northern Highlands, the Isle of Skye is connected by road so much easier to travel to.
That said, this immediate section of the route remains on track with the Route 500. Leaving Torridon behind, you continue west on the A896 along the Applecross Peninsula. The roads are narrow and snake their way along the coastline. The incredible views across the sea, however, make up for the many blind corners and countless wandering sheep.
If you can pull your eyes away from the road in front, the views over to Raasay, Rona and Skye are stunning. You will pass through a number of small villages before you reach Applecross and probably a well earned drink and bite to eat.
From Applecross it was on to one of the real highlights of the Route 500, the Bealach na Ba pass (Applecross Pass). The road is littered with hairpin bends, extremely narrow and rises to 2053ft. The trick is definitely to keep your eyes on the road and let your passenger describe the scenery to you.
The views are breathtaking and making this journey in an anti-clockwise direction builds you up for such a driving challenge. Once you reach the Bealach Na Ba viewpoint at the top of the pass you must take the obligatory photo.
Now for you to decide – Back to Inverness or on to Isle of Skye
Back to Inverness. Once you reach Tornapress at the end of the pass, you will turn right onto the A896. At Achasheen, you will take the A832 and then A835 to Inverness. This route from Tornapress will take you about 1.45 hours and is just under 70 miles. This will be your Route 500 completed. Well Done!
Isle of Skye. If, however, you like myself, fancy adding on the Isle of Skye – given you’re in the area! Please see this short ‘add-on’.
Once you reach Tornapress at the end of the pass, you will turn right (as above) onto the A896. However, after Lochcarron, you will take a right onto the A890 all the way down to Auchtertyre. Here, you will turn right onto the A87 to the Isle of Skye.
There are some wonderful hotels on Skye and after all the concentration required during today’s drive, I was off to enjoy it.
Places to Stay on the Isle of Skye:
- Kinloch Lodge
- Cuillin Hills Hotel
Day 7 – Isle of Skye – Inverlochy Castle, Fort William (2hours/84 miles). Follow A87, A82
Inverness-shire. It was an early start for me as I wanted to have a whistle stop tour of the island before heading off to my next castle for the night. I had decided not to return to Inverness as I had my own car and ultimately needed to go south to London. If you are renting a car then from Skye it is an easy run back to Inverness on good roads!
It will take you around 2 hours (A87, A887, A82) and the journey takes you alongside Loch Ness as you approach Inverness. If you fancy adding on to your Scottish adventure then Inverlochy Castle in Fort William is my accommodation for the evening. Inverlochy Castle is a beautiful hotel in the foothills of Ben Nevis and a wonderful spot to relax and reflect on this iconic Route 500.
In the meantime, my ‘must sees’ on the Isle of Skye are:
- Fairy Pools – collection of rock pools filled with crystal clear spring water from the moutains
- Portree – the island’s small capital
- Old Man of Storr – iconic local tall rock. You ca see if from miles around.
- Mealt Falls – you can see the falls and Kilt Rock from just off the main road
- Quiraing – incredible vast and craggy landscape created from an ancient landslip
- Fairy Glen – small cone shaped hills once home to magical fairies!