Luderitz
Luderitz is nestled between the harsh conditions of the Namib-Desert and the Atlantic Ocean in the southwest of Namibia. If you want to visit this once prosperous mining town then you will have to make a detour from the main roads that run between Namibia and South Africa.
How to reach Luderitz
You will be looking at a 1.30hrs drive from Aus, there and back, as there is no circular loop from the C13 road that connects South Africa with Sossusvlei. Therefore, if you are running on a tight schedule, you might prefer to spend more time in the more popular tourist spots of Namibia. That said, Luderitz is a small welcoming town with beautiful German colonial architecture.
There are, however, 2 highlights on the B4 road from Aus to Luderitz:
- The Namib Wild Horses. These horses have managed to adapt and survive in this harsh, barren environment. Today, you can expect to find about 250-300 horses roaming this area. However, you’ll have to follow a small gravel road bout 20 km from Aus to find their watering hole in a little place called Garub.
- The Commonwealth War Graves and POW Camp. A small cemetery and the remains of a WW1 POW camp. A memorial to Namibia’s little known history during this time.
Kolmanskop is a Definite Pitstop
Furthermore, some 12km before you reach Luderitz, you’ll come across Kolmanskop. This deserted diamond mining town is home to sand-filled dwellings and derelict buildings that once made this a thriving working town.
I found Kolmanskop quite eerie and thought provoking. To think that around 50 years ago it was a major settlement for diamond miners. Then, richer ore and alluvial deposits were found near Oranjemund, which ultimately led to its sorry demise.
Founded in 1908, the town boasted unbelievable wealth during the heydays of the diamond rush. Story has it that the casino tabs were occasionally paid for in uncut diamonds, or diamond mining company shares. Kolmanskop had a tram, the only one in Africa, transporting passengers and delivering free ice blocks to re-stock private fridges.
The clinic also had an X-ray machine which was another first in Africa. However, the medical use of the device took second place to the job of X-raying for swallowed diamonds!
What to See in Luderitz
Luderitz itself, however, has a small marina to stroll around and the bay strikes an impressive contrast to the backdrop of desert dunes. The attractive German architecture and Arte-nouveau buildings make it a characterful seaside town.
Felsenkirche is one of the most popular tourist sights in Luderitz. You can see it above, standing proudly, set into the rock on Diamond Hill. It is a vertical Gothic style church which was consecrated in 1912, a few years after the diamond rush of 1908.
The wild coastline is a haven for seals, pelicans, penguins, coromons and flamingos to name but a few. The sea is rich with oysters and lobsters. The winds on this coastline do rage so you’ll get your fill of ocean air here. It is a popular spot for kite surfers which is not surprising.
One of the main reasons tourists visit Luderitz is generally to see Kolmanskop but Luderitz has its own charm. German and Namibian architecture live side by side in this bustling seaside town.
Luderitz feels like a very authentic Nambian town. It maybe well be isolated on this rugged coastline but this has, conversely, created a very self sufficient and lively community.
The wild Atlantic Ocean, desert, German architecture and ghost neighbouring town, all come together successfully to make for a very unique seaside town. If not, a little too far off the beaten track for many.
Accommodation in Luderitz
Whilst Luderitz does not have an extensive list of deluxe lodgings, I can recommend the following:
Luderitz Nest Hotel – a highly regarded beachfront hotel with comfortable rooms, a restaurant and stunning harbour views.
The Cormorant House – modern, ocean-facing apartments with private parking and sunset views. Only a 5 minute walk to the town centre.
Dining Options in Luderitz
If you like seafood then you are most definitely in for a treat! Here are a few top suggestions:
Portuguese Fisherman – cozy atmosphere and known for its excellent seafood, particularly fresh fish and crayfish.
Essenzeit @ Waterfront – a top choice for fresh seafood, including their grilled crayfish. They also serve a variety of hearty dishes like schnitzels and steaks whilst enjoying a great view of the harbour.
Barrels Restaurant and Bar – famous for its relaxed vibe and also some of the best pizzas in Namibia.
Penguin Restaurant – located in the Nest Hotel (above). This is a more upscale option offering an elegant dining experience with a focus on local flavours