The Hidden Wonders of the Beautiful San Blas Archipelago
December – March is the dry season in the Panamanian islands of San Blas. Average temperature 27-29 degrees Celsius (81-84F). There are no hurricanes in the area.
Where are the San Blas
If you have never heard of these idyllic islands you would not be alone. The San Blas or Guna Yala are a hidden gem within the Caribbean Sea.
These 360 or so tropical islands off Panama are home to the world’s best secret. I kid you not – how many people have ever even heard of this hidden archipelago?
You are all familiar with the many beautiful islands the Caribbean has to offer. You have no doubt visited many – Barbados, Jamaica, Antigua, Bahamas and the list goes on.
San Blas islands form part of an independent indigenous territory nestled between Panama and Colombia.
The Guna Tribe and San Blas
The islands are owned by the last tribe of the Caribbean, the Gunas. The Gunas, have their own customs and laws and have fought hard to maintain their culture. Many of the islands are uninhabited and others may have just one family living on them.
Tourism is allowed in San Blas at their discretion and at times they maintain strict controls over it. It’s forbidden for outsiders to operate businesses within San Blas. This ultimate control of tourism ensures the well-protected natural beauty of the islands. This is undoubtedly aided by the fact that these islands are not the easiest to get to. A deliberate decision I’m sure.
All transportation and accommodation in San Blas are owned and operated by Guna people. This way, they know how many visitors are on the islands on any given day and where they are staying. The money they receive mostly goes directly on education, health or permaculture
The San Blas is a matriarchal society. In this small indigenous territory, women occupy a revered role. They are the primary property owners, chief breadwinners and decision makers. Those islands inhabited by Guna, are handed down from one matriarch to another.
One of the joys of visiting the San Blas islands is that you can learn about this fascinating group of people and their culture which unlike in many destinations still very much thrives.
Why is San Blas Unique
Well, unlike most small island paradises, think Maldives, you will not find a hotel resort in the centre nor over water villas. In fact, the closest you’ll get to a five star resort in San Blas will be on a catamaran. Tourism is relatively new to the San Blas and my advice would be to go now before it develops further.
For generations, the Guna people have lived a very basic and simple life consisting mainly of fishing and hunting. Many have never left this territory and so the idea of offering high-end hospitality to visitors is still in the planning phase if indeed it ever arrives.
Anything the Gunas require above what they can grow, fish or hunt has to be imported via Panama City. It is transported by 4WD to the coast and then carried by their small boats to the islands. The infrastructure in the San Blas does not support running water or electricity!
Those islands that permit tourism have built cabana type accommodation often with shared facilities such as bathrooms, dining room etc. The idea is to just come and forget the world outside. Needlesstosay, no wi-fi anywhere!
How to Visit the San Blas Islands
Most people visit on a day trip from Panama City. This is a long day, leaving about 5am and returning about 9pm. You will be picked up from Panama City by 4WD (3-4 hrs journey) to Carti and then water taxi (30mins) over to the islands. It is the cheapest option.
Another option is to jump on one of the passenger boats that sails between Panama and Colombia and vice versa. It is a long trip on choppy waters so not for the faint-hearted.
Lastly, and far more likely for my readers, is the route I took, not the cheapest but definitely the fastest. A private or shared 6-8 seater charter plane from Panama City. Takes 45 mins. It takes you directly to a small landing strip on one of the islands and from there either a private or group boat/catamaran trip.
Please check out my bIog Sailing in the San Blas. An insight into our private, 3 night, catamaran trip around the San Blas. This for me, at my grand old age, is the only way to enjoy the San Blas and is truly a memorable experience.
Accommodation in San Blas
As I’ve mentioned above the islands definitely do not offer resort type hotels and indeed the limited accommodation they have is rustic and very basic. It comprises of huts, tents or cabanas and this has to be organised prior to arrival. This is made either via your tour agency or directly with an island (depending on your level of Spanish!).
Whilst this accommodation may appeal to some of you, it is not what I shall be covering here. For further information on staying on the islands, here are some useful websites:
If, however, you like your comforts, like me then the very best way to experience these islands is by chartering a catamaran or sailboat.
There are a number of companies operating from Panama City that can organise this once in a lifetime trip for you. They will arrange your transfer to the islands either by 4WD then boat (the long way) or by small plane (the short way). Here are a few below:
- San Blas Sailing – Speak to Jean-Charles or Melody
- San Blas Catamarans
- San Blas Tours
Upon arrival you will board your catamaran waiting for you by the main island. You can choose to share a catamaran with others or privately hire your own. All your food and drink will be provided for you whilst on board and all you have to do is sit back and enjoy the ride.
Your holiday duration is up to you but obviously the longer you are on the catamaran the more islands you will see. I visited islands that were uninhabited and others that just had 3 people on. The captain will endeavour to seek out islands where you will see no other boats nor tourists.
Food and Drink
All your food and drink will be provided to you on your boat. There will be a chef on board who will prepare fresh meals three times a day using local produce where possible. Lots of fish and shellfish but they also cater for non fish eaters. Usually, before your trip, a questionnaire will be sent to you asking for your preferences.
Snacks and fresh fruit are always available. Likewise, all soft drinks, spirits and wine are included. So enjoying a glass of wine whilst watching the sun go down is very much on the cards.
If you’re lucky too, your captain can arrange for you to enjoy a bbq on one of the islands with the Gunas.
What to Do in San Blas
If you’re looking for an action packed holiday then this trip is not for you.
This is time to relax, reflect and remark at the beautiful world we inhabit. As your sea vessel glides across the calm waters from one island to another, you can look around in awe. Swimming, snorkelling, kayaking, paddle boarding and walking around the islands filled most of our days.
The water of the Caribbean Sea is crystal clear and you can snorkel freely amongst the marine life. Expect to see anything from grouper, parrotfish, snapper, stingrays to lobster, barracuda, star fish and dolphins.
The Gunas sidle up to your boat during the day selling their freshly caught fish. If you like lobster, you are in for a treat. Most Guna men spearhead their fish from their small canoes and if not fishing then they are chopping down the plentiful coconuts on the islands.
There are no motorised sports allowed in the San Blas nor is scuba diving permitted. As a result, the islands are quiet and as the darkness descends, the sky lights up with the brightest of stars.
Stepping onto the soft, white Islands
As I mentioned earlier, some islands are completely uninhabited and you can swim up to them and enjoy your own desert island beach. One island I spotted was a perfect little circle with just 3 palm trees growing on it anchoring it to the sea bottom.
Swimming between the islands in some places is also feasible so you can get your exercise in. Whist the uninhabited islands are magical it’s also a must to visit islands where there are indigenous members. The Kunas are so very welcoming and smiley. They do not speak any English but are happy to let you walk around their little oasis.
You can read up on their history and culture and learn about this fascinating tribe. Your crew or certainly your tour operators should be able to give you lots of information about the islands and their very special inhabitants.
We were lucky to have lunch and an evening bbq on the islands whilst we were there. Lobster, crab and rice are the staples and all prepared over an open fire. Our catamaran company had organised this for us and it was really very special.
To earn some money, the Guna women make beautiful ‘molas’ and beaded jewellery. Molas are hand painted textiles and the beaded jewellery is part of their own national dress. The women are adorned with beaded bracelets on their arms and lower legs.
In Summary
If you find yourselves in the area, do not hesitate to visit these islands. If you love sailing, snorkelling and island life, do not hesitate to visit. It is a unique spot that has yet to be tainted by mass tourism.
San Blas is a truly authentic destination in Central America but arguably one of the very few authentic destinations in the world. However, with the roller coaster of ‘progression’ and the economics of tourism, they surely are living on borrowed time. Go before it’s too late!
